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Tacoma Teraflex 2 in. Falcon Sport Tow/Haul Lift System (2005-2020) Review & Install

It's Joe from Extreme Terrain.

In this video, we're going over the Teraflex 2-inch Falcon Sport Tow Haul Lift System fitting all '05and newer Tacomas.

Now, this is gonna be a great option for you if you're looking topay top dollar for a high-quality adjustable suspension setup that's going to allow youto run anywhere from no lift all the way up to two and a quarter inches of lift in thefront and one and a quarter inches of lift in the rear.

And on top of that, it's basicallygonna be able to take any abuse you could throw at it, whether you're towing, you havesomething heavy in the bed or just doing some plain old off-roading.

Now, diving into this kit, let's talk abouteach component one by one, breakdown all the features on everything that's going on here, and we're gonna get these all side by side next to the factory stuff in just a minuteand really point out the differences.

But for now, let's talk about these front struts.

Now, these are gonna be a huge upgrade over the factory stuff, 6061 aluminum body that'salso a lot bigger in diameter.

That's gonna help contribute to the cooling capacity aswell as there's more fluid actually in the strut.

Hardened steel shaft.

That's gonnabe great for durability, and speaking about longevity, at the bottom here, we also havesome Zerk fittings, allowing you to keep those nice and lubricated if need be.

Now, the real piece on these struts is gonnabe this snap ring right in the middle here.

This is where the lift is gonna be comingfrom, and you get three adjustment settings.

This one up at the top here, this is goingto be for no lift whatsoever.

This one in the middle, which is what it's set to rightout of the box, this is gonna be for a level ride height.

Now, for our install, we're gonnaleave that right there at level, but that might not be the case for you, especiallyso if you have a heavy-duty steel front bumper, maybe one with winch in it.

That adds a lotof weight, and weight add sag to the front end of your truck.

If that's your scenario, you'd wanna take that snap ring, move it to the bottom position.

That's gonna give youthe extra push up to dial out that added weight.

So, a little bit of adjustability there.

That'sreally, really nice in my opinion, not something you can really change on the fly.

So you haveto make that decision pre-installed, but it's really nice to have a choice.

Now, speaking about upgrades, this is gonnabe a monotube design.

And when you're comparing that to a twin-tube, what that basically meansis you have more fluid in there, which is great for cooling, but there's also a clearseparation between the gas and hydraulic fluid, which is gonna help you resist cavitation.

When you're really, really leaning on these things, you're compressing them and expandingthem rapidly, a lot of times that fluid in the air can mix, and that's where shock wavecomes from, not the case with this monotube.

This is gonna take the abuse way better thana lot of other designs out there.

Now, that does come at a slight cost.

When comparingthese to factory, they are gonna be just a tiny bit stiffer, and I wanna stress it'snot like you can't daily drive on these to ride.

It's just fine.

However, that is gonnabe the slight trade-off.

Moving right along to the rear, you can seethese lift blocks right here at the front.

This is where our rear lift is gonna be comingfrom, one and a quarter inches in height in total.

Those are gonna sit right in betweenour leaf springs and axle tube and get the truck up in the air a little bit at the rear.

Now, for the rear, we also have some brand new components as well.

We got brand new microcellularfoam bump stops, which is a nice touch and, of course, longer U-bolts to accommodate forthat extra height.

Now, at this point, you're probably wonderingone and a quarter inches at the rear, two and a quarter inches up at the front, what'sup with that inch disparity? Now, what that's for is to dial out what's called rake.

AllTacomas and trucks in general for that matter, they sit a little bit lower in the front, a little bit higher in the rear, and the purpose there is to dial out any added weight.

Ifyou have something heavy in the bed or if you're towing a heavy load, the truck wouldthen squat in the rear a little bit and sit level.

If you're not doing either of thosetwo things often, it's more of a looks thing.

This is definitely gonna be able to do bothbasically, fix the rake, and still allow you to tow and haul around a heavy payload atthe same time, which really gives you the best of both worlds in functionality and style.

Now, as far as upgrades in the rear, we dohave another huge one to talk about, and that's gonna be this awesome pair of reservoir shocks.

The reservoir, that's going to allow you to have a little bit more hydraulic fluid inthere, which is gonna help you out with cooling exactly what you want.

Again, when you'releaning on these, the rear is gonna hold up just as well as the front.

You also get afast adjust knob on there.

It's got three settings, comfort, moderate, and heavy.

That'sgoing to allow you to dial in the stiffness, allow you to control whatever payload youhave on the rear of your Tacoma.

Now, of course, these are also a little bit longer to allowyou to deal with that extra lift we have in the rear of our truck, and they also comewith some roost guards as well to keep that piston shaft protected, deal with any debrisflung up by the tires when you're doing some off-roading, which is a nice little touch.

So what kind of tires can you expect to fiton a suspension system like this one that's gonna give you two inches of lift? So, asfar as tire sizing goes, you really can't go that much bigger over factory.

The factorywheels on this truck, they're gonna be about 30.

6 inches tall.

As you can see, we triedthe 33s, and even under light turning, you're gonna hit fender liner.

If you wanted to cutthat out of the way, I'm sure you could get away with it a little bit better.

However, the max I would go here is probably in the middle ground, 31½, maybe 32 inches.

MaxI would personally go is 26570 or 16, somewhere in that area.

That's gonna be about 31.

6.

So, next up, let's talk about a big one, andthat is gonna be the price for something like this one.

Simply put, this is a really high-qualitykit.

You're getting a lot here, and the price is gonna reflect that.

I'll cut right to thechase.

This is gonna be about 1, 500/1, 600 bucks to pick up for your Tacoma.

Now, doI think that's worth it? If you're looking to go with something that is better than justany other standard spacer lift kit, this is a great option, and I think this is somethingthat's going to hold up for a very, very long time.

A lot of engineering goes into somethinglike this, and, yes, I do think it is worth the price tag.

And Teraflex even backs itwith their three-year warranty.

So, next up, let's get to the good stuff.

Let me show you how to get this installed on your Tacoma.

Now, before we do, a coupleof things I do wanna go over here.

If you plan on using your factory wheels and tiresafter the install, there is a little bit of extra cutting involved.

They have a littlebit too much backspacing, and we need to make room for our reservoir.

So the rear shockbucket is gonna have to have a small cut taken out of it.

Also, trucks that are on the newerside, specifically 2015, '16, '17, and anything newer, it's gonna require the use of a 7/8inch drill bit on that upper rear shock mount.

I'll show you how all that works in just asecond here.

Now, the install is not gonna be easy.

We're gonna need a spring compressor.

I'm gonna give it a full three out of three.

It should take you about a day if you comewith the right tools.

So without any further ado, let me show you what tools you'll needand how it's done.

Tools I use for this install will includethe impact mini-ducktor some safety glasses are gonna be a must, a good set of pry bars, the drill, ratchet, a good set of adjustable.

This one in the middle here is called thespud wrench.

It's got the alignment dowel at the end that is really, really helpful, a good set of wrenches from 14-millimeters all the way up to 19-millimeters.

Ratchetingwrenches will help you a ton here, sockets ranging from 22-millimeters all the way downto 10, Allen keys ranging from 4-millimeters all the way up to 8-millimeters, a U-joint, some spray lubricant like PB Blaster, brake clean, spray paint, a half-inch drill bit, as well as some new cotter pins and some blue Loctite.

If you are working on a 2015 andnewer, you will also need a 7/8 inch drill bit, step that will help you out, needle nosepliers, center punch, sharpie, tape measure, hammer.

If you plan on running factory wheels, you'll also need a cut-off wheel and die grinder.

If you have aftermarket wheels, you will notneed either of those two.

Now, not pictured in this shot will be the spring compressorand the floor jacks.

So, over by the truck, we can get startedwith the install.

First things first, you wanna make sure your truck is jacked up niceand safely.

Use jack stands.

Throw a tire underneath of it.

You wanna be careful withthat one.

Secondly, go ahead and pop the wheels off.

That's gonna reveal all your suspensioncomponents.

A nice healthy dose of PB Blaster, some sort of rust penetrant is gonna help.

The earlier you can get that soaking, the better.

Now, to start on our suspension components.

.

.

well, actually not.

The first thing we're gonna do is disconnect our brake line brackets.

They're held on with some 10 and 12-millimeter bolts.

During the install, you don't wannastretch those.

So we're just gonna go ahead and disconnect the brackets first thing.

Sothe first one we're gonna disconnect is a 12-millimeter bolt right here on the knuckle.

Pop that out of the way.

And for safekeeping, I'm just gonna thread the hardware right backin.

Next one we're gonna remove is right here on the frame, and this is 12 as well.

Andthe last one's gonna be right here on the upper control arm.

Next thing we're gonna disconnect is our swaybar.

It's held on by a 17-millimeter nut.

Now, if this does spin on you, you can getin here with a 6-millimeter Allen key to hold that boulder still.

We're gonna try with theimpact first.

Lucky enough, no problem.

We can go ahead and pop that out, move it aside, and we're gonna do the same thing over on the other side.

I'm gonna hit that off-camera, and we can move right along.

Now, the next thing we're gonna focus on hereis our tie rod, and that has a cotter pin in it.

So I'm just gonna take the needle noseand make that nice and flat.

So, hopefully, we could pull it out without breaking it.

To be honest, I'll probably replace both of these anyways.

Actually, not too bad, surprisingly.

Old truck working on a '05 came right out.

Now we can remove that castle nut with a 19-millimetersocket.

And what I'm gonna do actually is I'm gonnathread that right back on a couple threads, reason being this tie rod is stuck in thistaper right here.

So what we're gonna have to do is give that a tap with the hammer torelease it.

You're gonna wanna make sure you have a pair of these with you just to be safe.

So now that we have that pop loose, we can fix any damage done to the dust shield hereand then go ahead and remove that nut.

Next thing we're gonna take care of is ourupper ball joint, and there's a cotter pin in that.

So we're just gonna go ahead andget that out of there.

Now we can come in with a 19-millimeter socket on the U-jointand get that nut off there.

And just like before, I'm gonna thread that back on whilewe pop that ball joint.

Now, this is gonna serve two purposes.

One, it's gonna protectour threads, and two, it's gonna catch this upper control arm popping off too fast.

Nowwe can remove the nut and pull the two apart.

Next, we're gonna work on this bolt on thelower side of our strut, 19-mil on both sides.

Go in there, grab that.

And we're gonna pushthat bolt out.

Next thing we're gonna tackle is up at the top here.

We got three 14-millimeternuts holding the strut into the bucket.

We're gonna go ahead and remove those.

I got theshort socket on the ratchet here to do so.

And while those are still attached, I'm justgonna grab the ratcheting wrench and get that one in the back.

That just goes to show howmuch heat makes a difference.

Obviously, don't apply too much because right underneath thatthere is some rubber and right there there's some rubber.

So, be careful.

But if you'restruggling, the induction coil will help.

I wouldn't use the blowtorch just becauseof the rubber, but hey, with the back one removed, we can make quick work of these twoin the front with the electric ratchet.

So now we can go ahead and remove our strut.

We're gonna have to do a little bit of work with the sway bar here just to make sure thatit clears, but once you get the bottom out, it's really not that bad.

So that's one sideuninstalled.

I would go ahead and go over to the other side and get that caught up toexactly where we're at right now.

And before you go to the spring compressor, we actuallyneed to remove our skid plate, reason being our sway bar is gonna have to come out sowe could install these sway bar relocation brackets.

They're gonna go right there.

That'swhat we're gonna do next, and again, the first step to that is removing the skid plate.

Sothis is held on with four 12-millimeter bolts.

We're actually missing one right there, butthat's no big deal.

There's one there, one there, one there.

There should be one there.

We're gonna remove them all.

This thing does tend to vibrate when you impact it.

So, coveryour ears.

Now, it's gonna be held on with a couple hooks at the front.

So just grabit by the back.

Lift it up.

Push it forward.

It will drop right off.

Now we're gonna swap over to the 14-millimetersocket and remove these two bolts on the sway bar, same thing goes on the other side.

Sohere's how this is gonna work.

You can see on our new relocation bracket we have a coupleof different holes.

These two are gonna line up with our original holes, and the one inthe back, we're gonna get that started for the factory bolt.

And then in this recessedone here, we're gonna put in this new bolt and tighten that down with an Allen key, butfirst, we gotta hit that with a little bit of blue Loctite.

And we're gonna tighten thatdown with an 8-millimeter Allen key.

So now what we're gonna do is we're gonnatake the short 17-millimeter bolt that comes with those sway bar brackets.

We're gonnaget that started finger-tight, reason being this sway bar bracket, it's gonna slide inthere like so, and then we can tighten down the other side.

Now, we're gonna wait on that.

I'm gonna get the other side caught up to this one, and what we're actually gonna donext is start on our struts, reason being, the looser this is, the easier the strut isgonna be able to get in there.

So we're gonna save that until after we get the strut in.

So here we are over by the machine that keepsme awake at night.

You definitely gonna be engaging the safety squints for somethinglike this.

But in all seriousness, all jokes aside, you wanna take this thing seriously.

When you compress a spring like this, there's so much potential energy.

So you wanna makesure all those fingers have a nice good grasp on those coils before you go ahead and crankdown and remove that 17-millimeter nut on top.

We have everything lined up I got linedup off-camera.

So I'm gonna go ahead and crank down on this, and we can remove the nut.

So we don't need that much tension right now.

Once you could spin the strut freely here at the bottom, you're pretty much good togo.

What we're gonna do, grab our 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench.

Get that started aroundthe nut.

And I'm gonna use the adjustable because I'm a terrible mechanic.

Now, as wecome to the last couple of threads, you can see our strut is held up by that bushing rightthere.

I'm just gonna relieve some tension.

Now we can pull out our old blue and yellowstruts.

So now that we have our good old Bilsteinremoved from the spring, I figure now be the perfect time to grab our new Teraflex strut, put it on the table next to the old one, and draw some comparisons and differences betweenboth of these two pieces.

The first thing I really wanna highlight here is just howmuch more beefy this new strut is gonna be.

The body is effectively 50% bigger.

This guyover here is about an inch and a half in diameter, while our new one is gonna be two and a quarterinches.

So, that means there's a lot more fluid in this new one, and that is gonna helpwith the cooling capacity.

Now, it's the same story up here with theshaft as well.

This one measures about 14 millimeters in diameter.

This one is gonnameasure about 19 millimeters in diameter, and that extra durability is really gonnago a long way if you plan on really beating on your Tacoma.

So that is definitely a goodthing to have.

Down at the bottom, again, same story.

You can see just how thin thisBilstein is right here, and that's definitely gonna be a weak point, not as big of a problemwith the new Teraflex unit.

This is definitely way more beefy than the factory stuff.

Now, we're getting some brand new featuresas well.

Of course, we have that Zerk fitting at the bottom.

Again, that's going to allowyou to keep that continuously lubricated.

That's not a feature on a factory Bilstein.

So that is definitely a nice touch.

And we have some choice where this carrier is gonnago with that snap ring right there.

Now is the time we're gonna have to make that choice.

So, if you plan on not wanting any lift, move it up one that direction, and if you do havesome heavy-duty off-road gear, move it down one, and right in the middle is gonna be level.

That's exactly where we're gonna stick.

Now, our carrier is gonna be an upgrade aswell.

This is billet aluminum, which is really, really nice stuff.

And then we have this isolatorhere, which is injection-molded, and that is durable for sure.

That's exactly what youwant.

We can go ahead and slide that over top just like so.

We also have this brandnew bump stop right here.

Again, this is microcellular foam, good stuff.

All this is gonna do isslide right over top of the shaft just like that.

It's actually gonna sit closer to rightthere.

And that's pretty much gonna do it as far as differences and similarities gobetween these two.

One small thing, we are losing that boot onthere, which I thought was a nice touch, but hey, the seals on here are really good, andthey're definitely gonna keep that shaft really clean.

So without any further ado, we cango ahead and grab our new strut.

We're gonna head back to the spring compressor and getthis bolted up.

All right.

So back by the spring compressor, when you're putting this in, you wanna make sure the Zerk fitting is gonna face the wheel.

That way you have easy access to it, and I happen to know that that guy is over here.

So what we're gonna do is come up through there like that, throw that on the top, andit just needs to be a hair tighter.

And we can line all that up, and we could tightenthat down with our 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench and the adjustable.

And I believe thatthe top of this is actually an 8-millimeter nut if you wanted to hold that still witha real wrench.

Now, at this point, we can relieve the tension on our spring compressorand head back to the truck.

Now, all we're gonna do is come back to thetruck, and we're gonna get that started in the bucket and push that up through.

For now, just finger tight.

You wanna throw those 14-millimeter nuts back on.

We'll get the bottom situated, and then we'll come back and tighten down the top after we got the bottom done.

All right.

So, the bottom, we're actuallypretty close.

We're pretty lined up here, pretty much just eyeballed the rotation ofthis, but you wanna make sure this Zerk fitting is out.

If not, head back to the spring compressorand flip this 180.

Otherwise, the studs at the top aren't gonna line up.

So, the bottom, what we're gonna have to do, just see if I can get it started here, and it's not lookinggreat.

So what I'm gonna do, this guy right here is called the spud wrench.

It's basicallyan adjustable.

It's also got a hammer on there, but at the bottom, it has an alignment dowel.

This is like an ironworkers tool, but it comes in handy for stuff like this.

I'm just gonnagive it a small turn.

There we go, lines up really, really easily.

I highly recommendhaving something like this on hand.

Now we can throw in our 19-millimeter bolt, and on the other side, we're gonna throw on a washer and our 19-millimeter nut, and thenwe could tighten that down.

Back up to the top, we got three 14-millimeter nuts to tightendown.

I'm just gonna take down some of the threads with the electric ratchet.

At thispoint, you wanna get the strut on the other side completely caught up, and then you couldbolt down your sway bar over here as well, and again, 17-millimeter socket.

Next thing we're gonna take care of is ourupper ball joint, and to do that, I'm just gonna get that upper control arm seated inthe knuckle.

A lot of times, you do have to use a pry bar, but this one looks like itwas tightened down pretty low.

So, you can just get it with your hands, but once youget that done, go ahead and throw on the 19-millimeter castle nut and tighten it down.

Align thehole and run back through your cotter pin.

Next thing we're gonna do is our tie rod, and that's gonna go right back in and then secure with the factory 19-millimeter castlenut as well.

And just for safety's sake, we're gonna go ahead and get rid of that old rustycotter pin and put a fresh one in there.

Next thing we're gonna take care of is our swaybar and link into the knuckle.

It's gonna go through just like so and get a factory17-millimeter nut.

So now we're pretty much done.

I just gottaput our brake and ABS lines back.

We're gonna start with this one on the upper control arm.

This is gonna require a 10-millimeter socket.

Then we'll swap over to the 12 to get thisone on the frame, and we're gonna need a 12 for this one on theknuckle as well.

And after we're done this, you repeat the same process over on the otherside.

Get that all buttoned up, and then we can move to the rear.

Now, at this point, this side is pretty much wrapped up.

We're gonna go ahead and repeat the same processover on the other side, get the skid plate hooked up with the 12-millimeter socket, andthen we can move to the rear.

So now we can get started on the rear.

Firstthing we're gonna have to do is get this shock out of here.

Now, if you're working on reallyany Tacoma, especially the older ones, this one being a 2005, you're gonna find a tonof rust.

And these two 14-millimeter nuts right here are gonna be really, really toughto remove.

So I already broke out the big guns off-camera.

I hit it with the wire brush, a little bit of rust penetrant, and the induction coil just to throw some heat on there.

We'realso gonna break out the good old Knipex pliers here with the Cobra jaw to hold the boot stillwhile we back that nut off.

And there we go.

There's two nuts on there.

They're jam nuts.

The other one got away from me, but this goes to show you a little bit of prep work andthe right tools, a little bit of know-how make quick work of any rusty nut.

Now we canuse a 17-millimeter wrench and socket to remove the bolt out of the bottom shock mount.

Now, next up, we're gonna focus on removingour U-bolts and basically disconnecting the leaf spring from the axle tube.

Before youdo that, you wanna make sure the axle tube is supported, if you're working on the floor, floor jack.

Our case, we're gonna use pole jacks here and just apply some very lightupward pressure to keep that from moving around.

And it's a 19-millimeter socket to removethese four nuts.

Then you can pull this plate off the bottom and remove the U-bolts.

Anotherthing we're gonna remove is this factory bump stop from the top of the leaf spring.

So now that we have all of our rear suspensioncomponents removed, I figure now is the perfect time to lay everything out, put the old stuffnext to the new stuff, and again, we'll draw some comparisons and differences between ourfactory stuff and our new Teraflex kit.

Now, first things first, let's talk about theseshocks.

Now, the biggest difference between these two is going to be volume.

You can seethe shock body is going to be much bigger with a new one being about 2.

3 inches in diameter.

Old one's gonna be about 1.

7.

So you're adding fluid there, which is gonna help, again, withcooling capacity.

Also adding to that, this is gonna be a reservoir shock.

So you getsome extra fluid in there as well, again, cooling capacity.

On that reservoir, you also get that fastadjust knob, allowing you to dial in exactly how this shock is gonna respond, and that'snot a feature at all on the factory stuff, so a huge upgrade there.

Now, while we'reon the topic of diameter, let's talk about the shafts.

I can't see past this metal booton the factory one, but it's safe to say that this new Teraflex shaft is gonna be a littlebit bigger in diameter just adding to the durability.

Now, to go over some of the other componentswe have on the table, again, we have our lift block in the middle with that little alignmentpin.

Again, you don't have one of these from the factory.

So there's nothing to compareit to, but you do have some supporting components that are gonna come with that lift block.

We have our new bump stop right here, which is gonna be a foam instead of this metal one, which was from the factory.

It's also a little bit taller.

As I put it in there, we stilldepress it in so it's gonna get just a tiny bit shorter but just adding a little bit moreheight for the bump stop.

Also, we're getting new U-bolts here.

Theseare gonna be a little bit longer to accommodate for the lift, and that is exactly what we'regonna need.

So, that's pretty much gonna do it as far as differences and similaritiesbetween these two kits go.

There's a little bit of prep work we're gonna have to do forthis shock before we head back to the truck, and I figured we'd do that now while we'reon the table.

It's gonna involve this guy right here.

What this is, this is an alignmenttab if you wanna use factory wheels.

You can see there's already one on there if you wannause aftermarket wheels, and it's kind of got a bias to it.

Now, what that's gonna do isthis is gonna sit on that lift in the bucket, and it's basically gonna turn the reservoirfrom being flush like that out like that so it can clear the bucket without cutting.

Now, the factory wheels, the backspacing isjust too heavy.

So what they give you is this one that's perfect 90.

It's gonna bring thatreservoir in.

We're gonna have to cut our shock bucket, but the tire is gonna clearin front of that.

Our truck is gonna run factory wheels.

So we're gonna show you exactly whatgoes into something like that if you wanted to keep your factory wheels.

First things first, though, we gotta changeout that alignment tab.

Now, what we're gonna do is pull off our bushings, and then thisis gonna go aside.

You can see how this is biased to the side.

That little turn rightthere, that's gonna move the reservoir out past the bucket and allow everything to clearwithout cutting.

Again, this is what you're gonna wanna use if you have aftermarket wheelsthat cut down on the backspacing.

Factory wheels, we're gonna use this one that'sa perfect 90.

That is gonna go on there.

Then we can reinstall our bushings, and for thetime being, I'm gonna put the top bushing on and hold that together with the nut.

Thisis factory.

This is aftermarket.

Now, the next thing we're gonna have to take care ofon that shock is gonna be this guy right here.

This is called a roost guard.

It's just basicallyanother layer of protection over that piston shaft, and this is going to attach with the4-millimeter Allen key bolt that comes included in the kit.

Before we do it, though, we'regonna hit it with a little bit of blue Loctite.

So once you have that roost guard installed, that's gonna be the shock taken care of.

Now we can get back to the job at hand, installingthis lift block.

We'll come back and install the shocks obviously a little bit later on, and, of course, since we're doing factory wheels, there's gonna be a little bit of cuttinginvolved.

So, stay tuned for that.

Right now, before we do this lift block, we have to installthe actual foam part for our bump stop into this mounting cup.

So, all we're gonna dois lube it up, and press it into place.

So, now we're all set, and with that foampart installed, you can see the height difference in these bump stops.

Put the two behind eachother like that.

You can see our new one is gonna be just a little bit taller.

But that'sgonna do it.

Let's hop back for the install.

We're gonna need our rear lift block obviouslyand this little alignment towel to make sure everything lines up.

Then we can bolt it downwith the new U-bolts.

Back over by the truck, all we're gonna do is lower our pole jacksto make some room.

And once we think we got enough, we can go ahead and slide in thatlift block and let that little alignment dowel slide into place.

Now, if you haven't doneso already, you wanna get the other side caught up and then do the same thing.

Now, at thispoint, we're just gonna align everything.

Come up on pole jacks.

Now, at this point, once we have everythinglined up, we can go ahead and throw on our new bump stops and tighten everything downwith the new U-bolts.

Now, on the bottom of the U-bolts, we're gonna get our new 22-millimeternut started, and when we tighten these down, just like changing a tire, you wanna do thisin a cross pattern just to make sure the forces are evenly distributed along this plate.

Andthen we can do the same thing over on the other side.

You see that's looking about evenright there.

So next thing we're gonna do is install ourshocks.

Now, we got a little bit to go over, again, if you plan on doing factory wheelsversus aftermarket wheels.

Now, if you're using the other alignment tab, this is gonnaget a little bit of an angle to it sort of like that, and the reservoir is then gonnabe able to clear this shock bucket right here.

However, you do need aftermarket wheels thathave less backspacing than factory in order to have this right here.

Now, factory tab, what that's gonna do is keep this flush.

That is going to be able to accommodate for theextra backspacing that the factory wheel has.

However, the shock isn't gonna go up therebecause the bucket is basically in the way.

So what we have to do is notch that to allowour reservoir to get all the way up in there, and then it's gonna be as simple as pie.

I'mgonna grab the cutoff wheel, the grinder, and some black spray paint, and we'll getthat taken care of.

So, how you're gonna wanna measure this, youbasically wanna follow this flat line right here and just come all the way back sort oflike that, so just a continuation of this line, and that's gonna be an inch and three-quarterdeep.

Now, you're also gonna wanna measure about an inch down from the top, and, hey, we're pretty close actually right where we're at right there.

And then you just wanna followthis line straight down parallel basically with the frame.

I'm just using the ruler asa straight edge.

Come in just this gauche.

And that is gonna be our cut right there.

In order to get this radius, we're gonna drill out a half-inch hole.

So we're gonna start with the pilot hole usingthe step bit.

Now we could take the cutoff wheel and follow the lines.

So over here on the driver's side, we're gonna do the same exact cut.

However, there is an extra support bracket here.

There's really no measurement for this, but you'rejust gonna cut it on a diagonal following that sort of ellipse right there, and thenyou're gonna bring it to this corner.

Next thing we're gonna do is just clean up ourcuts a little bit.

I got the flat [inaudible 00:43:18] and die grinder to do that.

We'regonna do the same thing over here on this side, and then we can give it a fresh coatof paint.

Now, there's one step left and that is tofinally install our shock.

Now, before we do, one thing I do have to mention for thenewer trucks, specifically 2015 and newer, what you wanna do is drill out this top mounthere to 7/8 of an inch, and obviously, you'd wanna spray-paint that too.

But that's basicallygoing to allow your bushing to sit correctly in that top mount.

Since we're working onan older truck, we don't need to do that, and this can go right in.

And then on thetop, we're just gonna put our bushing down and then follow up with the 19-millimeternut.

So now we just need to get the bottom-mounted up with the factory 19-millimeter hardware.

You might as well set the shock too soft for this step and then take the pry bar, thatup in the air a little bit, and try to get that bolt started.

And, again, we could tightenthat down with 19-mil on both sides.

Guys, that's gonna do it for the install.

Just a couple of closing thoughts here, you wanna make sure everything is torqued to spec.

Then you can put the wheels back on and take your Tacoma right to the alignment shop.

Well, that's gonna do it for my review and install of the Teraflex 2-inch Falcon Sport Tow HaulLift System fitting all '05 and newer Tacomas.

As always, guys, thank you for watching.

Keepit right here at Extreme Terrain for all things Tacoma.

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